Rock Climbing and Abseiling on Portland
The Isle of Portland is one of the most popular sport rock climbing venues in the South West of England. There are over 900 routes, of varying abilities, recorded along its coastal sea cliffs and their dramatic setting, spectacular views and scenic coastline make it an unforgettable place to visit.
The World Heritage limestone cliffs of Portland are fortunate in not having too many overhangs making it a more popular location for climbers in the UK. The majority of the climbs are steep but suit most abilities from lower grades to plenty of E grade climbs, many of which are bolted with good stainless resin anchors.
Portland's coastal cliffs also provide an important habitat for a wide variety of plants and animals, some of which are nationally or globally scarce. Due to its important nature conservation value, Portland's World Heritage coastline is a designated Special Site of Scientific Interest (SSSI) and is also a European Special Area of Conservation (SAC). To help protect this important coastal environment, climbers, conservation organisations and the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) have agreed seasonal restrictions and sanctuary areas.
The nesting sea birds found on Portland's coast include Peregrine Falcons, Puffins, Guillemots, Razorbills, Fulmars and Kittiwakes. Some of these species are protected by law under the 1981 Wildlife and Countryside Act, making it a criminal offence to disturb these birds during the nesting season (February to July).
To help avoid disturbance to protected nesting birds, such as Peregrine Falcons, seasonal climbing restrictions are placed on sensitive areas of the coast. Areas where restrictions are found are marked with circular disks attached to bolts at the boundary points of the restricted areas. The first bolts of each climb in the restricted areas are also tagged to help climbers identify the restricted areas. Climbing in these areas can lead to the birds failing to breed.
Please Do Not Climb In These Restricted Areas And Avoid Walking Under, Leaving Equipment Or Swimming Close To Restricted Areas - This May Also Distess The Birds.
Please note restrictions may change from year to year or at any time during the season, so please contact the Portland Island Ranger or British Mountaineering Council for up to date details.
Cliff Plants
Portland's coastal sea cliffs provide an excellent habitat for a wide diversity of plant species. Some of these plants are nationally rare species often restricted to a few coastal locations in the United Kingdom. Plants such as Portland Sea Lavender (Limonium recurverum) are internationally rare and can only be found on Portland's coast. Please help to conserve these rare plants, by minimising disturbance to cliff face vegetation. In particular, do not garden routes (remove plant material from the cliff face). Also avoid abseiling over the cliff tops as this can cause fragile cliff top plants, such as Portland Sea Lavender, to become dislodged and their cliff habitat damaged or destroyed.
Parking
Many of the popular climbing areas on Portland are close to residential areas. Please park considerately in these areas without blocking drives, parking spaces or garages.
Public car parks provided for visitors include: Church Ope car park, opposite Portland Museum, provides free parking for "The Cuttings" area, Cheyne Weares car park, found to the north of Southwell, provides free parking for visitors to the Neddyfields and Godnor areas.
Accommodation
For details of hotels, Bed and Breakfasts and Campsites, please ring the Weymouth Tourist Information Centre on 01305 785747 or call at the Portland TIC at The Bill. It is worth visiting the local villages as there is a wide range of pubs, restaurants and cafes on Portland suitable for all the needs of climbers. Please note, camping is not allowed on and around Portland's coastline.
Portland Rock Climbing Forum
To help manage climbing on Portland a local "Rock Climbing Forum" has been formed. The Forum includes interested parties such as Weymouth and Portland Borough Council, the BMC, Dorset Countryside Service, local landowners and local climbers themselves.
If you have any issues that you would like to be addressed by the Portland Rock Climbing Forum, then please contact the local BMC Access Representatives on 01305 836100 or the Island Ranger on 01305 251507.
Good Practice - Key Points To Remember
Birds
Familiarise yourself with the seasonal bird nesting restrictions before climbing, remember these may change from year to year. Please do not climb in these areas and avoid walking under, leaving equipment or swimming close to the ban areas.
Cliff Plants
Minimise damage to important cliff face flora by not "gardening" routes - Portland's cliff face flora contains a number of nationally scarce species of plant life.
Abseiling
Protect fragile cliff top flora by avoiding abseiling over the cliff top wherever possible.
Sanctuary Areas
Please do not climb in the sanctuary/restricted areas found at the East and West Weares and below the MOD compound at Portland Bill.
Quarries
There are many active "working" quarries on Portland. For your own safety please do not try and climb in these areas.
Litter
Take all your litter with you when you leave.
Tuition
Rock climbing courses and tuition for young people and adults available from Weymouth Outdoor Education Centre, Knightsdale Road, Weymouth, Dorset, DT4 0HS. Tel: 01305 754927. www.dorsetforyou.com/outdoored
Useful Telephone Number
Coastguard - 01305 760439
Weymouth Tourist Information Centre 01305 785747
Climbers Please Note
This information is intended to help you play an active role in helping us to protect this fragile coastal environment and does not imply that access is permitted by landowners for you to climb on Portland's cliffs. Climbers should be aware that they are liable for their own actions.
BMC Participation Statement
"The BMC recognises that climbing or mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement."
Minimising the risk involved in a climb means having the right level of skill and experience relative to the difficulty or seriousness of a climb. A climb that is regarded as easy is not necessarily safe and a difficult climb not necessarily dangerous. The amount of danger or safety involved during a climb comes from the climber not the rock.
Accidents do happen and in such an event first aid training can make all the difference. As a minimum, all climbers should be familiar with basic emergency procedures.